So far today, we’re error free . . . at least no unforced errors. But the elements, both weather and human, weren’t operating in our favor. But you know what? It’s turned into an interesting and challenging day, one in which we’ve managed to experience Hong Kong in a way the tourist bus travelers never will.
We started with a leisurely morning. We both woke up around 5 AM (4 PM back home). We read for an hour and rolled over at 6 and slept until 9. Not bad, considering we were in bed by 8 PM (Judy) and 9:30 PM (your faithful scribe, Jon). The breakfast buffet here at the Charterhouse runs until 10:30 so we enjoyed our usual repast before hitting the trail.
Our plan was to hike to Big Bus Stop 3, just like we did yesterday. From there we’d go to Stop 8 to visit the Man Mo temple. And then we’d stroll 10 minutes or so to the Luk Yu Tea House for, what else, dim sum.
That’s where things went off plan. We were at Stop 3 by 11:06 AM, just missing the 11 AM bus, we assumed. But when Noon came and still no bus, we, being the bright hicks from New Hampshire, figured something was amiss. I called two Big Bus phone numbers; no answer. Finally, I googled “Big Bus Hong Kong Sunday”. Sure enough, up popped a notice that on Sunday, November 12, 2017, and that day only, Red Stops 1, 2, 3 and 4 would not be running due to a 10K race in that end of town. Thanks a lot, Big Bus. Can’t hardly wait to let ‘em have it on Trip Advisor.
Actually, the hour wasn’t a total bust. Judy smelled department store and sure enough 20 meters down the street from Stop 3 was the Sogo department store. We ducked in for a 5-minute look-see. I’ve seen crowded stores before, but nothing like this. It was packed with about half of Hong Kong’s millennial generation, cheek to jowl, waiting to buy whatever it was that must have been on sale that day. My shopping tolerance isn’t high, but I couldn’t wait to get back out into the rain.
Did I mention it started to rain? Not a drizzle, an honest-to-goodness rain.
Time for Plan B.
Hong Kong has a quaint tram service; it runs east-west in the general direction of Big Bus Stop 5 and is listed in the guide book as a must-do. But how to get on, pay the fare and figure out where to get off? No problem, Judy pulled out her Big Bus map, stood in the rain looking perplexed and soon enough a nice, English speaking man stopped and explained the system to us. (His son graduated from Babson)
You’ve got to see the picture to appreciate what this two-decked top-heavy contraption looks like. They tried to kill the service when the subway went in but by popular demand the tram was saved and enhanced.
So on we hopped, went upstairs, and rode until my GPS said we were close to Stop 5. Close, but no cigar. Turns out the tram veered off Hennessy Street onto a parallel street, leaving us a block of course. So get out the map, stand in the rain, look confused and this time a nice young English-speaking passerby sent us to the correct spot.
A half hour later we settled into our seats on the Big Bus. Well, Judy did. Hers was the last seat in the dry section of the bus. All the unoccupied seats were in the open air and hence rain. So that’s where I sat.
Somewhere I read that Hong Kongers show great reverence and respect for their elders. Now I just turned 70 and was probably twice the age of the average bus rider that day. But did anyone give me his or her seat? I guess I don’t have the venerated elder look thing going for me yet. Or maybe the Yanks, Brits and Aussie tourists haven’t absorbed enough Chinese cultural values yet.
Wet though we were we arrived at Stop 8 right in front of the Man Mo Temple. It’s one of oldest structures in Hong Kong and is a Taoist temple. Or is it Confucianist? Not Buddhist (no fat bellies). Certainly not Methodist. I get my Eastern religions mixed up. Whatever, it was full of shrines to a variety of gods. And a steady stream of worshipers came in, lit incense and offered prayers and supplications at the various altars.
I bought the e-book version of Lonely Planet ($14.95) before leaving home and I was bound to make use of it. So off we walked through the rain to the Luk Yu Tea House, a short 11-minute (google maps) walk away. It took only 45 minutes and two interventions, one by another nice man and then the bodyguard at the HK Jockey Club who I asked and who finally got us the last 50 meters to our destination.
Lonely Planet said, “This gorgeous teahouse (c 1933) . . . masterful cooking . . . Eastern art deco décor . . . haunt of opera artist, writers, painters . . . old-school Cantonese . . . $$”. The only argument I’d have with that description is the $$ thing. Should have been $$$. All the rest is accurate but the $346 HK bill ($40) for four dim sum items was a bit on the high side, especially compared to our home street Dim Dim Sum shop. But you only live once. . .
We sprang for a cab back home ($5 bucks US) and got here by 3:30. Our next event starts with a bus pickup at 4:30 so Judy gets an hour’s nap and I get to type.
+++ More Later +++
So here I sit at the dinner table, typing away while the “Filipino band” plays away. “What a loser” you’re thinking. But let me explain. Judy has set my bedtime for 10 and I’m afraid I won’t get this done in time.
We’re on the last leg of today’s activities: a Gray Tour outing. They picked us up at the hotel at 4:30. Judy had a one-hour nap while I banged away on the typewriter. First stop the International Commerce Center a 108 story skyscraper across the bay in Kowloon. It took one minute flat to ascend 100 floors to the observation deck (393 meters). Our weather jinx continued. Visibility was advertised as 1,000 meters but we could barely see the ground. Instead of the glorious evening lights of Hon Kong and Kowloon we saw the inside of a cloud.
Next, a visit to a night market, a collection of pop-up stalls selling trinkets and tee shirts, etc. Fortune tellers had stalls across the street. Judy wouldn’t let me have a palm readi. She wouldn’t let me buy any of the other personal services on discrete but evident display. Thankfully the clouds had lifted and the rain had stopped.
Finally, a harbor cruise to view the building lights on either side of the harbor, including a 15 minute light show that commended at 8. Our ship came in at 7:55 so we saw the show, narrowly avoiding another disaster. Dinner was what you’d expect for an outing like this; it wouldn’t cut the mustard on a Carnival cruise boat. But the band has a bunch up dancing so I’d better quit and join the party – they’re playing YMCA!
OMG, they’re teaching the pax the Macarena. I’m staying firmly planted, you betcha. Unless, of course, they play some salsa!
You may, if you’re reading this, assume that we got home Ok.