One reason we wanted to come to Iceland with Sage Lewis is that he’s so well connected with the music and arts scene in this country. He’s lived here with his family for three months during Covid, recording an orchestral composition with Icelandic musicians. We continued to benefit from his connections today with two private meetings with Icelandic artist friends of his. Plus, we benefited from being here on National Day.

Our first event was a living room concert performed by Bryndís Jónatansdóttir, who preforms as Február. She did a half-dozen piano/vocal songs she’s written. Very melodic and soothing music. Check her out on Apple Music and Spotify.

In addition to her music career, she’s the mother of four, including an 11-month old toddler. Her husband Is Icelandic but spent his first 15 years in Ann Arbor, Michigan. The family lives in suburban Reykjavik in a very nice two-family house. Traveling there gave us a chance to see what life in Reykjavik’s burbs is like.

Bryndís holds a degree in business and works in that capacity. Sage met her when applying for entry to Iceland during Covid under a Record in Iceland program through the ministry office where she worked. He only then realized that she is Februar, someone whose music he had heard and admired at Iceland’s Airwaves festival.

Bryndis writes lyrics in English, having learned the language as a five-year-old watching the Cartoon Network.

Next up, a visit to the studio of Gudrun Einarsdotir, a painter who does fascinating work making abstract paintings with paint materials through a natural process that resemble the Icelandic landscapes. Each piece, ranging in size from 15 inches square to seven feet square and can take up to two years or more to complete. Each work reflects her feeling that results from her hikes in the lava-based wilderness of Iceland. She takes no photographs to inspire her work but rather relies on the impression the wilderness has left with her. Check out https://listval.is/artist/gudrun-einarsdottir/

Lunch was at a waterfront fish-and-chips place called Kaffivagninn. While waiting for our tables, we looked over the harbor from a nearby pier. In addition to the usual collection of fishing boats one finds in a working fishing port, there were a couple of other interesting craft.

An Icelandic Coast Guard ship was nearby. Being the oldest Iceland’s four Coast Guard boats, it had participated in the Cod Wars of the 1960s. At the time, the fishing limits of European countries was 12 miles. Iceland decided to set a unilateral limit of 50 miles. Many countries observed Iceland’s limit, excepting Great Britain. Iceland drove the British fishing ships away when Iceland’s Coast Guard ships  cut the offending ships’ netting lines. Eventually, after 15 years of conflict, the dispute was settled diplomatically; the limit today is 200 miles.

Two whaling ships could be seen moored across the bay. Our friend Judith the whale watcher from Antarctica would throw a fit (probably is), knowing that Iceland is one of only a few countries still whaling. Due to politically-imposed bureaucratic red tape, these boats won’t whale during the coming summer season. But still. Really?

We walked from lunch back around the harbor to the downtown square and the Reykjavik Art Museum. There we saw a special installation by Jónsi, titled Flood. Jónsi, you will recall, was the frontman for the world famous group Sigur Ros. Here’s the artist’s statement:

“the ocean being this ominous and mysterious force playing a central part in our Icelandic lives. It’s basically about ‘the big wave,’ a wave that takes us all and destroys everything in its path. The effects of climate change, such as sea level rise, flooding, melting glaciers and intensified natural disasters, are happening all around us, and this piece is a reflection of that dire reality.”

 The town square was also the site of the Nation Day celebrations. We missed the parade but there were still lots of choral groups and brass bands playing. There was a whole section of kids amusement activities. It was cold (50 degrees) and overcast. But the citizens of Reykjavik learned how to have fun despite such conditions a long time ago.

This was our last day in Reykjavik. Tomorrow were traveling to the north a bit to see some scenery. But first, we’re having a “tasting menu” dinner with Thor, his wife, a vocalist who is the only counter tenor in Iceland and his wife, a theatre set designer.

Walking to dinner from the hotel back to the town square area passed by people dancing in the streets to celebrate the holiday. Icelanders know how to have fun.

And the meal at Fiskmarkadurinn was the best yet. King prawn tempura, lightly salted cod white chocolate cheesecake doesn’t begin to describe a great meal.