At last, a Spanish city. Lots of churches and cathedrals. Lots of buildings with second-story balconies. Bright colors. And four cruise ships in port at the same time. Everywhere we went we saw people with Bus 6 tags on their shirts. There were more than one Bus 6.
And I bought a genuine Panama hat, my third, this one made in China. Cost me 30,000 Colombian Pesos, about $7.50.
Our first stop after an early start was at the San Filipe de Barajas Castle. It’s not really a castle, it’s a fortress built to defend Spain’s interest in Cartagena from privateers, buccaneers and pirates, France and other foes of Spain. Cartagena had developed as one of Spain’s main ports for shipment of gold, silver and other valuables back home. The attackers coveted the goods, not the land.
Work started in 1536 to support the walls the Spanish had thrown up to protect what is now Old Town Cartagena (where our hotel the Sofitel is located).
It started out as San Lázaro Castle, and was significantly expanded and renamed San Filipe de Barajas Castle in 1657, thereby honoring King Philip IV of Spain. It sits on top of a hill outside the city walls, has three levels and a labyrinth of tunnels, a bunch of cannon and great views of approaching enemy troops. Hard to imagine how anyone could successfully attack such a mighty fortress.
Privateers and buccaneers, operating under license from Britain and France, were successful especially in the early days. King Louis XIV’s forces succeeded. The Spaniards won it back. The British attacked during the War of Jenkin’s Ear but failed. Each time it was attacked it was strengthened.
Next, a stop to learn drumming at the beachfront neighborhood of La Boquilla. La Boquilla is a community of Afro-Colombian people, whose heritage is a mixture of Africans brought to Colombia as slaves to work the plantations and construction projects; those of Spanish descent; and indigenous people. They have formed a school to teach young people Afro-Colombian rhythms, both to preserve the legacy and to give the students an alternative activity to life on the street. Very much like the break dancers we saw in Medellin.
La Boquillas moved here from a beachfront property closer to downtown, which was sold to condo developers. The residents are in a love-hate relationship with development in their new location. A multistory condo/Airbnb abuts the school we attended. Development brings money but it also threatens the culture members of La Boquilla are trying to preserve.
Downtown in the Old City we stopped at the main cathedral of Cartagena, the Cathedral of San Pedro Claver. The big draw here was not just the church but a chance to meet and take photos of Palanqueres, the fruit basket ladies of Cartagena dressed in traditional costumes and balancing fruit on their heads.
A light lunch – two appetizer courses, a main course (seafood stew for Judy, chickpea salad for me) plus dessert. We’re “on our own” for dinner tonight. On our walk back to the Sofitel Judy and I scouted out a restaurant that serves pizza and plays salsa music until 1 AM. After the lunch blowout we need something light. And salsa never hurts.
Back at the hotel we were treated to a historical tour of the hotel. Turns out it was originally a 17th century convent and stayed that way until Independence in 1861. Seems a wealthy lady bequeathed the convent, thereby ensuring a sacred place for her burial. We saw her crypt; it was empty and the location of her bones unknown. Oh well.
Girls came here for several reasons. Some wanted to avoid a loveless, arranged marriage. Some wanted the freedom to learn to read and write, something denied women of that time. Those pregnant out of wedlock might be sent there by their families to avoid shame.
After the State took over from the Catholic order, the building served as an orphanage, jail and until 1974 the city’s charity hospital. Eventually it was purchased by the French company Accor who made substantial improvements, leading it to eventually become a Sofitel property. One of the hotel’s first guest in the 1980s was Fidel Castro.
Tomorrow’s our last day of touring before heading back to Sun City Center. We’ll see another neighborhood, drink rum paired with chocolate and attend the farewell sunset cruise and dinner. After three weeks we’re ready for home.
So here’s the bill for dinner. No salsa but:
· Pizza, bruschetta and Sangria outside on the next square down from the hotel: $60
· Rhythm percussion and dance ensemble: $5
· Rapper trio who complemented me on my shoes from Iceland: $15
· Guitar vocal duo: $20, which earned us a fourth song: Guantanamera, including Florida in the lyrics.
Best $100 we’ve spent in a long time.
