Bites and Sights โ€“ San Jose January 11, 2025

One nagging concern I have about our travels around the world is whether itโ€™s a wise use of our resources. Why should we indulge ourselves in luxury travel when so much of the world is suffering in poverty?

Costa Ricaโ€™s economy isnโ€™t all that bad โ€“ steady growth in GDP (5%-ish) not-all-that-bad unemployment (less than 10%) and poverty levels that are declining (25%-ish currently). Costa Ricaโ€™s economy is driven by services โ€“ 70%, followed by industry (20%) and agriculture (4%). Tourism contributes 8% of GDP and is a major source of economic growth and jobs growth.

So, our contribution to tourism here and most places has a positive impact. Is the same true of a more developed economy? Italy and many other tourist hotspots are driving tourists away. But here the tourism business is welcoming.

So travel we will, for better or worse. Itโ€™s a ton of fun and a great way to gain an appreciation of how the rest of the world lives.

Today, Saturday, we saw the Costa Rican economy in action. We walked from our hotel about 3/4ths of a mile through the central shopping area of San Jose. Sidewalks were crowded with shopper. Stores and street vendors were doing a good business by all appearances. There was a vendor selling lottery tickets about every 100 feet along the way. Some of the vendors are unlicensed and our guide said they had to be on the lookout for police, ready to roll up their operation and run. Daniel, our guide, started his career selling limes, unlicensed, at street corner at age 14.

He also said that central shopping district had no neighborhood associated with it โ€“ no apartments or houses at all. After 8 PM the streets are taken over by drug dealers, criminals and prostitutes.

And speaking of the lottery, Costa Ricans are highly superstitious. We walked by a statue of a rather voluptuous woman, La Chola. Rubbing her backside brings good luck. A good place to rub your lottery ticket. ย Most of the Ticos passing by when we were there gave her at least a pat on her well-worn posterior. Pat her hand to bring friendship. Rub her stomach so youโ€™ll never go hungry. Rub her chest and . . . Well, youโ€˜ll have to guess. This is a family blog.

Daniel was leading us on a foot tour named Bites and Sights of San Jose. We met in front of Los Presentes, a group of statues representing the agricultural workers who used to occupy downtown San Jose. Theyโ€™re gone by now, moving to the countryside. And as the tour name suggests, he led us through two large markets, along the streets of downtown San Jose to ย Mr. Slothโ€™s Coffee Shop, stopping along the way to sample fruits, ice cream, Costa Rican empanadas and finally Costa Rican coffee. He also pointed out important buildings and historical sites.

Beforehand, we ate breakfast at the hotel, violating big time our intermittent fasting routine. I may have used this line in earlier blogs, but while traveling we practice intermittent eating: 16 hours eating, 8 hours fasting. Judy had eggs Benedict and I had a traditional โ€œTicoโ€ meal of eggs, rice and beans, plantains, tacos and cheese. Canโ€™t say enough good things about the Grano de Oro. Every nook and cranny is filled with vegetation: green plants, flowering plants including blooming orchids everywhere.

The walk to the meeting place helped, we rationalize, to use up some of the unaccustomed AM calories. Skies were partly cloudy; temps up to 80. A breeze kept things comfortable.

San Jose has no โ€œold town,โ€ dominated by Spanish cathedrals and governmental buildings. Such structures are scattered around town but thereโ€™s no one area where they are concentrated. Part of the reason is that San Joseโ€™s land is unstable, particularly from earth quakes. When a structure is damaged, it isnโ€™t rebuilt, it is replaced.

We stopped by the National Theater, built in the late nineteenth century to entertain business people from Europe and elsewhere. The plan was to finance its construction from coffee duties. In the end, such duties contributed 4% of the cost. The balance came from Costa Rican income tax revenues.

We visited the main cathedral on what was the central plaza of San Jose, the place where independence was declared and site of other important historical events. The cathedral is Catholic. Eighty percent of Costa Ricans are practicing Catholics.

The first market we entered was spread over a collection of buildings. We stopped in the basement of one where local farmers sell their fruits and vegetables. There we sampled a wide variety of Costa Rican produce. Many are not indigenous to Costa Rica. Bananas were introduced by Chiquita and the rest. Many are from Asia.

In the Central Market we sampled a gelato made on site since 1909, if I remember correctly. Neither the ice cream nor its stand have names. Thereโ€™s only one stand and only one flavor โ€“ cinnamon, nutmeg and I forget what. After a taste the success of the business comes as no surprise.

Mr. Slothโ€™s Coffee Shop served us the better part of a meal. It included banana ceviche, vegetable tamales wrapped in banana leaves and plantain empanadas that we made ourselves (brown sugar and cheese on the insides). A cup of Costa Rican coffee ended the day. Costa Rican coffee is 1% caffeine, compared to the typical 3%. The coffee is much milder than Starbucks, et al.

In all, a fun and educational day.

After, around 3 PM, we hailed a two-stop Uber to take us first from Mr Slothโ€™s to the Grano de Oro (grain of gold, not sand like I said yesterday) where we picked up our bags. Then our driver took us to the Marriott where we checked in with the hotel and with the Tauck staff. The latter had us fill out information sheets and waivers. There are roughly 180 guests on this trip with five guides so weโ€™ll be in groups of 30 or more each day. Weโ€™ll fill up the good ship Bellot.

Next, the welcome cocktail reception at 6 PM this evening followed by dinner. Tomorrow, weโ€™re off to a coffee plantation and then an eco park feature rain forest and waterfalls.

The recpetion โ€“ a mixer, really โ€“ was nice. The group is a cross section of Sun City Center โ€“ 60 to 80-year-olds. Most seasoned travelers. The lady I sat next to at dinner was on her 26th Tauck tour. Dinner was a four-course affair. We wonโ€™t be going hungry.

We leave for the coffee plantation at 8:30 AM.

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And Weโ€™re Off – January 10, 2025

Day 1 of our 22 day journey to Costa Rica, Panama and Colombia. Alarm at 4:15 AM, 7:00 AM departure to Miami and 10 AM flight to San Jose. Uneventful except that they couldnโ€™t start #2 on the Airbus 321neo in Tampa. Maintenance showed up, recommended a manual start, rather than computer assisted. We ended up with a 20-minute dash down Terminal D in Miami but we were first on behind the wheel chair contingent.ย 

Two pilots, apparently deadheading from Tampa to Miami, left the flight when the delay was announced. โ€œNot a good look when the crew abandons ship,โ€ I said to one as he left.ย 

Itโ€™s a pretty day for flying and weโ€™ve had nice views of Miami, the Florida Keys and Cuba, including a barrier island off the southern coast of Cuba, apparently uninhabited. Then, beneath the clouds, the mountainous cloud forests of Costa Rica and into San Jose.ย 

The best laid plans arenโ€™t the best. Sometimes, forget the plans; go with what presents itself. This afternoon proved the point.

Tauck had arranged transportation from the airport to our first-night hotel โ€“ the Grano de Oro (Grain of Sand) downtown rather than the official digs at the Marriott. The Grano de Oro is an old mansion made into a hotel. It proved as charming as the pictures on line. So far, weโ€™re pleased.

The ride from the airport, normally 20 minutes, took an hour and a half due to accidents. Iโ€™d like to tell you it didnโ€™t matter because of the interesting scenery. But Highway 1 wasnโ€™t all that intriguing. The only thing of note were collections of third-world-ish buildings nestled next to steel and glass skyscrapers, one housing Amazon.

Our room wasnโ€™t ready but we had a plan: walk to the nearby (15 minutes) contemporary art museum and the adjoining park. The man who checked us in recommended an alternative: the National Museum of Costa Rica. And again, the unplanned was the winner. Uber worked like a charm both ways: $3 each way plus a $3 tip. Traffic was big-city terrible.

The museum is housed in a former army barracks built in 1917, a fortress-like structure that has been much modified since its army days. It is a repository of a large collection of artifacts and documents spanning Costa Rican history, beginning with pre-Colombian indigenous peoples to the present day. Thereโ€™s even a large live butterfly section you can walk through.

The bad news is that the museum sent my head spinning: too much history to absorb in a two-hour visit. So I could only scratch the surface. But here goes:

Columbus landed in 1502 and the Spaniards, as we all know, had the run of Mexico, Central and South America for 300 years. Before, archeological evidence shows a blending of Mesoamerican influence from the north and Andean influence from the south.

Mexico did the heavy lifting in its war of independence in 1821. The Central American countries were freed as part of Mexico but soon broke away. Costa Rica declared sovereign independence in1828. A democracy was established in 1868 and things went on an even, if poverty-stricken keel into the 20th century.

An election in 1948 was annulled by the ruling party. That didnโ€™t sit well with the other side and a civil war broke out, lasting five weeks. The rebelling junta was successful, and the leftist and communists were ousted. A new constitution was established, guaranteeing free elections that included universal suffrage. The army was dissolved and a Guardia National established to provide civil peace and safety.

The U.S. has mucked around in Costa Rican politics, especially in 1912 when the Marines landed and in the 1980s vis-a-vis the Sandinistas in Nicaragua.

Tonight weโ€™re having our two-traveler welcome dinner. Tomorrow: a walking and eating tour of San Jose after which we head to the Marriott to meet the rest of the crew.

Not a bad dayโ€™s work for the first days, if I do say so myself.

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Panama โ€“ Columbia Blog 2025

It’s the new year and time to dust off the traveling togs and hit the road, this time to Central and South America.

Actually, we just returned from a fantastic family adventure in the British Virgin Islands over Christmas week. Captain Jeff, along with crew mates Carter and Reagan, piloted the 42-foot Arctic Paradise II for seven days, December 22 โ€“ 29. Rebecca, Esme and Griffin joined us for the latter half of the trip, December 26 โ€“ 29, and quickly trained in as capable deckhands. We sailed in great breezes all week, snorkeled several times, became adept at mooring, anchoring and managing sails, and ate way too much every evening ashore. But of course the highlight was being with all our kids and grandkids for a relaxing time together and a challenging sailing adventure.

I spared the world from daily blogs but Judy and I did snap the shutter a couple of times. You can see the pictures, if you’re so inclined, at https://zenfolio.page.link/DjEvJ.

After the sailing trip, Judy and I flew back with the kids to Melrose for a week of socializing. The main reason for our trip to the frozen north (it got all the way down to 30 degrees one day) was a surprise party for Rebecca. Her boyfriend Sammy arranged the party to celebrate Rebecca’s recent completion of the Doctorate in Nursing Practice degree at University of New Hampshire. Nineteen friends and family members met in a local restaurant’s wine cellar for great socializing and great Italian food. The surprise was complete and much enjoyed by all. Judy and I embarrassed ourselves when our buttons burst with pride over Rebecca’s accomplishment. We’re pretty proud of our other shipmates as well. Pictures of the week in Melrose are included in the link above.

Our upcoming trip involves back-to-back Tauck tours, one through Costa Rica and Panama and the other through Columbia. We leave on January 10 and return January 30.

We’ve been to Costa Rica twice, once back in 2002 when Rebecca was doing a Northeastern University quarter there to learn Spanish and two years ago when we spent Christmas on the beach at Tamarindo with the family.

This time the two of us will spend a day on our own in San Jose and then tour with the group for two additional days in Costa Rica before boarding our small cruise boat (the Bellot; 200 passengers or so) at Puntarenas on the Pacific coast. The boat stops twice in Costa Rica before reaching a remote village on the Panamanian coast. Then, we spend a day sailing through the Panama Canal from west to east. We make a stop at a remote island community on the Atlantic side before leaving the ship in Colon. From there we travel by land across the Isthmus to Panama City. Ten touring days in all. Here is a map of this part of our trip to give you an idea of where we’ll be:

A map of the costa rica and panama canal.

Next, we fly to Bogota, the capital of Columbia, for a day, followed by stops in Medellin and then Cartagena for three days each. Lots of coffee and, I hope, history stories about Columbia’s violent past and as a close ally to the U.S. in the wars on Communism, Drugs and Terror over the past 50 and more years. Here’s the map for this trip.

A map of colombia with the colombian flag on it.

As usual, I’ll try to blog every day, conditions permitting. If you’ve been on our daily notification list for past trips, you’ll get the daily notifications automatically. If not, send me an email and I’ll add you in.

Hasta luego!

Maitri Party Time 9/28/24

The ailing oldsters continue to miss out on some of the fun times. Judy more than Jon. But we rallied for the capstone event โ€“ the reason we made this trip in the first place โ€“ the Maitri One Year Celebration party.

We missed out on the nightclub outing on Friday. Iโ€™ve included some pictures the goers took.

And we missed out on the tour with Paras on Saturday, a real disappointment. Only three ended up going due to work commitments the others had: Rebecca, Sammy and Kori braved historic rain and flooding. They toured Patenโ€™s Dunbar Square and the Boudha stupa โ€“ the big one that we saw on our first day but that the three of them had missed.

Paras designed the day to minimize outdoor time since Kathmandu and all of Nepal suffered an unbelievable rain storm country-wide. More than 30 people died. Transportation was disrupted. Monsoon season has traditionally ended by now but, nonetheless, down came the rain.

Judy and I stayed behind and drank Parasโ€™s prescribed balm: hot tea with lemon, ginger and honey. It does the trick. Try it next time you have a head cold or whatever else ails you.

The fear was that many Maitri employees wouldnโ€™t be able to make the party due to the storm, but the skies parted mid afternoon and the turnout for the party was just fine.

The party started with a musical group made up of employees: three flute-like wooden instruments and a guitar. Julie and Jeff made speeches thanking the employees for all theyโ€™ve done to make the company a success. Hor dโ€™oeuvres were served, the bar was open and a buffet dinner was available.

The guests of honor were folks from the Himalayan Childrenโ€™s Charity, many of whom we had met earlier in the week. One of the girls danced traditional Nepali dances in costume. A real crowd pleaser, judging by the attendeesโ€™ reaction.

But what everyone was waiting for was the dancing. DJ music โ€“ Nepali and Indian tunes โ€“ fueled a frenzy of dancing by everyone, even the stick-in-the-mud westerners. Those Maitri kids really know how to party!

A lot has changed in Nepal since we were here ten years ago. Judy reflected on the changes we saw this week. Here are her thoughts:

It has been 10 years since we were inย Nepalย and we have seen major changes! ย Nepal today isย likeย most major cities are today, bustling, busy traffic and all litย up!

Ten yearsย agoย I remember going toย Pokharaย for the week-end with theย Deerwalkย employees. ย As we left Saturday morning the van picked up the employeesย at their homes on the way out of town. ย On Sunday evening we were returning, and it was dark. As we wereย driving,ย I kept looking for us to come into the city. ย  Where are the city lights? ย Next thing I knew we were dropping people off. ย  I remember saying I was looking for the city lights and someone behind me said we do not have any lights. ย The city was pitch dark!ย The followingย week-endย we had gone to Chitwan and when we returned they had installed the first street lights in frontย of theย Annapurnaย Hotel.ย ย Ten years later, no more dark streets, the city is light up like any other city!

Ten yearsย agoย the streets were much narrower,ย mostly two lanes. ย At the time I remember seeingย the front 10 feet or so of housesbeingย takenย down to make way for the road to be widened. ย I remember feeling badly that these people were having to lose several feet off their houses but today the streets are all wide and bustling with traffic. ย Back in 2014 the traffic was all directed by traffic cops in a center platform at the intersections. ย Today they still have much of the traffic directed this way but there are alsoย someย streetlightsย to direct traffic.

In 2014 the power grid was very poor. ย The power would go out many times each dayย andย most shops had generators out on the sidewalks. ย Ten years later we did not see any generators on theย sidewalks. ย We did have the power cycle in the hotel sometimes but nothing like it was ten years ago. ย 

As I am writing this,ย I am thinking the Katmandu of ten years ago is no longer. ย It is now a largeย bustlingย city that is all litย up andย has leapt forward into the 21stย century.

We left the party around 10:30 PM to finish packing. Our van left for the airport at 11:15 and now, as I type, weโ€™re in the Qatar Airline lounge here in Doha. Fourteen and a half hours more of flying and weโ€™re back home! Except for poor Reagan and Dino who have another leg from Boston to California.

Itโ€™s been a great trip. Thanks again for traveling along with us. And thanks, too, to our on-the-ground traveling companions for putting up with us ainโ€™t-getting-any-younger types โ€“ Julie, Dino, Zach and Peyton and Rebecca, Sammy, Jeff and especially Reagan. Reagan was our companion, guide and luggage toter though both India and Nepal. Everyone bent over backwards to slow down, grab our bags and make sure we didnโ€™t fall off the curb. It was sometimes comical to see them fighting over our suitcases to see whoโ€™d get to carry them. And I wasnโ€™t always a gracious recipient of their aid. I was fighting them for my bag; Iโ€™m not always aging gracefully and tend to deny my infirmities. But we survived and had a blast and canโ€™t wait to do it again.

We keep saying weโ€™re going to stop doing these long-haul trips. Weโ€™ve been saving ourselves to do Europe and the USA in or dotage. But we keep finding reason to doing the long shots. Jeff will probably be having annual anniversary parties, weโ€™ve only seen a snippet of India, Doha looks easy to explore on a long layover, we never did make it Viet Nam . . .ย  As long as we can swing for those lay-flat seats I guess we can keep going for another couple of years. Right now, weโ€™re glad to be home. But tomorrow or next week? Weโ€™ll see!

Business and Monkeys in Kathmandu โ€“ 9/27/24

I finked out. So did Judy. Weโ€™re old and ailing is the bottom line. What weโ€™re missing is visits to two of the top nightclubs in Nepal and right up there in world rankings. Purple Haze is first, โ€œone of the best rock bars in town,โ€ with good food and drinks. Two hours there and then to Lord of Drink, a new club that ranks in the top 100 in the world. Lots of famous bands and DJs plus great food.

I must admit I wanted to go for bragging rights but my appreciation of modern rock is limited. Oh well. Ah to be young again.

Our first stop was at Deerwalk Holdings, the parent company of the Deerwalk software firm where Julie, Jeff and Rob worked. Deerwalk was purchased by Cedargate. The three partners left Cedargate to found Maitri one year ago.

For Julie, Jeff and Rob, and for Judy and me too, it was fun to see the campus. Today the main activity at Deerwalk Holdings are two schools: the Sifal School, a K-12 school with upwards of 900 students and Deerwalk Institute of Technology with 400 students studying mostly information technology.

Jeff, Rob and Julie saw several former colleagues with whom they have an enduring friendship. For us, the campus had changed greatly with new buildings and attractive landscaping. Tea and coffee were served in the traditional Nepalese way of treating visitors but it threw us somewhat behind schedule.

Lunch was next at a restaurant owned by a former Deerwalk colleague, Manesh. We traveled with Manesh when we went to Pokhara 10 years ago. I showed Manesh pictures from that trip including one where he, Jeff and several others were playing the card game Marriage. The restaurantโ€™s name is the Forth Floor, pant, pant. The food was great – a selection of appetizers for 11 โ€“ as was the view of the Monkey Temple, our next stop.

The Swayambhu Stupa is known to folks from away as the Monkey Temple because monkeys have the run of the place what Westerner can pronounce and remember the Nepalese name.

The monkey temple is located on a hill in Kathmandu with a commanding view of the valley. Great view, that is, if it werenโ€™t raining cats and monkeys today. Normally one can walk up the stairs at the bottom of the hill to the top but today the stairs were literally a running waterfall. Our driver took us to near the top, leaving us with maybe a fourth of the climb. No other tourists to speak of; monkeys outnumbered us two to one.

Swayambhunath Stupa dates back roughly 1,500 years. It has been rebuilt and modified 15 times in that period. It is most holy to the Newar Buddhists, who we saw in Kirpitur the other day. Itโ€™s the second holiest to Tibetan Buddhists, second only to the Boudha Stupa we saw upon our arrival in Kathmandu.

Swayambhu is also a holy site for Hindus. Mixed in with the Buddhist stupas are a number of statues, shrines and prayer wheels associated with Hindu gods. ย Most holy sites in Nepal are that way.

Buddhism, after all, is not a religion that worships a god or gods. Itโ€™s a way of leading oneโ€™s life so as to increase karma, eventually achieving a state of nirvana after many reincarnations. Hinduism is the worship of many gods. Pleasing those gods through prayer and right living is its goal.Both believe in reincarnation. Buddhists reject priests, gods, rituals and the caste system.Buddhists believe karma is gained through meditation.

So the two belief systems go hand-in-hand. There are lots of Christian Buddhists in the world for a similar reason.

The rain didnโ€™t let up for even a minute so traffic to our next destination โ€“ the Maitri office building โ€“ was brutal. At the office we had a tour of the three floors occupied by Maitri and then were given a reception by all the Maitri employees. There was lots of spirited singing by employee musicians, cake for those celebrating birthdays in September and snacks. Itโ€™s a regular monthly event made to coincide with Jeff, Julie and Robโ€™s presence along with their families.

In many respects, this was the highlight of our trip: to see the miracle the three Maitri founders have created. Eighty five engineers, brought together over 12 months to form a cohesive team. It says a lot about the Nepalese worker and Jeff, Julie and Robโ€™s ability to work with them to achieve the results we saw today.

The trip from office to the Marriott was even worse โ€“ flooding and heavy traffic caused the trip to take almost two hours. That cut into the buffer between arrival and the clubbing expedition.

In the end, everyone but Judy and I went. We had to face reality, something hard for us intrepid travelers to admit. We are sick. Flu, picked up who-know-where.

The monsoon brings on the flu season earlier than ours back home. Judy first, then me came down with a hacking cough. She has intestinal distress, not so much me. I have a low-grade fever; she doesnโ€™t.

We had the hotel doctor come in last night to check us out. He says Judy is on the road to recovery but I have an โ€œangryโ€ throat. He prescribed a medicated lozenge for me. I asked about Tamiflu for me, since the onset of my symptoms was lest than 72 hours ago. He shrugged and said, โ€œI donโ€™t know how much good Tamiflu does for you. Go ahead if you want.โ€ In the end, the hotel sent a driver out to get these non-prescription drugs. Total cost; 1,100 rupees or about eight bucks. I believe the doctorโ€™s visit will be $60. All without leaving our room in the hotel.

So now here we sit Saturday morning. Only three hardy travelers have ventured out with Paras. Our van driven by Ashok is hopelessly stuck in the flood waters. Parasโ€™s friend is driving them instead.

Our goal right now is to get better enough to attend the Maitri party here in the Marriott and then beat feet for the airport and our 2 AM departure to Doha and then Boston. Thank goodness for lay-flat business class seats. Signs are positive so far, Hopefully Judy will be strong enough to struggle into her sari for the party. I just have to wear a cool hat, thank goodness.

I wonโ€™t have time for the final posting today so Iโ€™ll try to get to it when weโ€™re home, jet lag permitting. Thanks for traveling with us. Itโ€™s always great to know weโ€™re not in this alone.