Not much touring today, a down day and travel day to Bangkok, Thailand. It’s getting harder to pack as the souvenirs start mounting up.

I did go for a 45-minute walk from the Victoria Palace Hotel to the former Royal Palace. It’s now mostly a military compound but the palace walls and moat are still intact despite Allied bombing of the Japanese occupiers during WWII.

Actually the learning experience was figuring out how to cross busy Mandalay streets. The key is to have faith that Mandalay drivers are all devout Buddhists and obey the commandment not to kill. You simply step out when the traffic moderates a bit. No use waiting for a safe, secure break; ain’t gonna happen. More than half of the vehicles are motor scooters that can easily dodge pedestrians. The key is not to hesitate. An even pace allows the driver to plan his or her course. Wavering confuses everyone. Friendly horn roots warn you if you stray too far.

Daniel, ever the tour guide, talked to us about two aspects of Myanmar culture on the hour-long bus ride to the airport. He started by noticing a maroon and saffron robed monk hanging off the back of a truck taxi – just like Michael and I did the other night going up to Mandalay Hill. They ride for free and because there may be women in the taxi they must hang on the back or ride on the roof. It’s not uncommon to see a whole roof full of monks careening down the street.

He went on to say that monks must follow 272 rules of which 10 are most important. Five are followed by all Buddhists: thou shalt not kill, lie, steal, harm the family or drink alcohol. Beyond that monks must not eat food after noon, sleep on a comfortable bed, take steps to look attractive. (Hence the standardized robes and shaved heads), partake in any form of entertainment (music, TV etc.) nor possess any wealth. All monks observe the top 10. Monks who devote their entire lives to being a monk observe all 272 rules.

All males must serve some time as a monk even if for only a few weeks. They focus on the 10-rule set. Eight percent of males commit to a lifetime career as a monk. Women are not required to spend time as a nun. About 20% of women do so of whom 80% remain for a lifetime.

He also talked about Aung San Suu Kyi, “The Lady” and her role in contemporary politics. As the 72-year-old daughter of one of Myanmar’s hero’s in the independence from Britain movement (assassinated in 1948) she is the shining hope for the future. With the new constitution, her release from decades of house arrest and her popularity she faced a choice between two paths. She could mount and lead a revolutionary force to combat the all-powerful military and its generals. Or she could recognize a split in the military between conservative generals and the liberal wing that is willing to introduce change. She chose the later more pragmatic approach, partnering with a general who is now President. Her role is State Counselor, a title created to fit her particular circumstances as de facto leader of the country.

The international community asks her, “How can you as a Nobel Peace Prize recipient stay silent in the face of the atrocities committed against the Muslim Rohingya?” To speak out forcefully against the generals, Daniel suggested, would run the risk of undoing the liberalization trend that has so painfully achieved.

Besides, Daniel and Sandro both told us, the Rohingya Muslims (Bengalis they call them) are not completely innocent as the Western press would lead us to believe. The Rohingya people were brought to Burma by the British to serve as laborers. When the Brits left the Rohingyas settled in the Rakhine State, an ultra-conservative Buddhist region. Since then the Rohingyas have multiplied (Rohingya men can have four wives and end up with 40 kids both guides told us) and today outnumber the native Rakhine people. Radical IS Rohingya fighters recently brutally murdered 53 Myanmar police officers. And who knows, maybe they burned their own homes as they left to make it look as if the police and military had committed atrocities.

Whatever you believe this or not it would seem that the people of Myanmar are willing to follow the lead of The Lady. The Rohingya crisis, bad as it might be, is not as important as the movement to bring order to Myanmar, to break the hold of the military in a peaceful manner. The Lady, just today, was negotiating with Bangladesh for the orderly return of Rohingyas.

So what do I conclude about Myanmar and it’s future? Here are my conclusions. Remember, these are the impressions I’ve developed, not to be confused with facts or reality.

I assume that the goal of most Myanmar people is to achieve a society in which all citizens can share in an improving standard of living and freedom to decide what direction their country should take. Implicit is the goal of reining in the military that today takes in a large majority of Myanmar’s wealth.

What Stands in the Way of Progress

1. The Generals and their cronies and family members receive much of the revenues, particularly from off-shore natural gas fields, to increase their personal wealth and power.

2. Widespread corruption. It’s not just the generals. People at all levels, perhaps following the example set by the generals, practice corruption as part of their daily lives. Myanmar is ranked in the top five most corrupt nations in the world.

3. Vast cultural and language differences. Myanmar has 140 or so distinct cultural groups, many with their own languages and religions. How does Myranmar bring together such a diverse collection into a cohesive nation?

4. Myanmar has a lousy reputation with the world community. Britain wants to impose new sanctions. Secretary of State Tillerson was in Yangon the other day and called for an independent investigation of the Rohingya situation but didn’t call for sanctions. Foreign aid, diplomatic relations, military assistance and investment will be hard to get as long as the cloud of the military, corruption and now the Rohingyas hangs over the country. Tourism, our guides tell us, is way down this year.

5. Myanmar lacks a banking system that can finance new ventures in the private sector.

6. Jobs for graduates, especially university graduates, are hard or impossible to find. Students can join the military but the work there is mindless and the recruits are subject to indoctrination and propaganda. University students’ only real hope is to find work outside the country. Singapore is a favorite destination.

I’m sure there are more issues, but these came through to me during our visit.

The Hope for the Future

1. The Lady, Aung San Suu Kyi. Daniel told us today she is his hope, his only hope, for near-term progress toward loosening of the military’s hold on the country and making progress toward its objectives. There is no other leader on the horizon with her stature but she has the potential to be Myanmar’s Nelson Mandela.

2. A tremendous work ethic. The people of Myanmar know how to work hard. They have to work hard so they can feed their families to survive.

3. The Buddhist religion. Yes, I know, it’s not a true religion but most people of Myanmar believe in the Buddha’s “Middle Way” and live the credo in their daily lives. The teachings of Buddha are so contrary to what is going on in the society today that it’s hard to reconcile the two. But Buddhism is a foundation on which a better society can be built

4. Natural resources, including natural gas, gemstones and agricultural products.

5. An interesting and intriguing tourist destination.

Bottom line: progress will be slow, painful and subject to setbacks. Myanmar won’t develop in a vacuum. Two great neighbors will influence its development: India to the west and China to the east. It has strong historical and geographical relationships with Thailand and Laos. Britain, its onetime ruler and the United States will play significant roles.

It will be interesting to watch events as they unfold. Good luck, Myanmar. Long live The Lady.

No pictures tonight. I only took two all day. Just wait ‘til tomorrow!