Reykjavik By Foot โ€“ June 14, 2024

I donโ€™t think Iโ€™ve ever met someone from Iceland. Weโ€™ve changed planes at Keflavik Airport a couple of times but those brief encounters with customs officials and coffee shop cashiers donโ€™t count. Iโ€™ve never had someone say, โ€œIceland? Iโ€™m from Iceland, you know.โ€

But then again, there are only about 376,000 residents in Iceland, and of those only 324,000 are true Icelanders, the remainder being from away. Almost 50,000 Iceland citizens live outside of Iceland, mostly in Scandinavian countries. There are about 40,000 people of Icelandic descent in the United States, mostly in the Upper Midwest. They came in the late 19th century and after World War II. Canada has a bunch, too. So no wonder Iโ€™ve never met an Icelander. Itโ€™s a small country with a small population.

But here we are, about to spend two weeks and more finding out whatโ€™s up with Iceland. Someone back home asked us, โ€œWhat in the world are you going to do in Iceland for two weeks. I spent four days in Reykjavik and that was plenty.โ€

Iโ€™m not worried though. I think Iceland has an outsized importance in the world, more of just about everything โ€“ culture, scenery, wildlife and history โ€“ per capita than just about any place I can think of. OK, maybe Antarctica is right up there, per capita wise, but hey, itโ€™s not a country.

Our flight over took five hours and was uneventful. We had dinner at Legal Seafood at the Boston airport, planning on saying โ€œNo, thanksโ€ to Icelandairโ€™s offer of dinner, opting for sleep instead. That proved to be a good choice. Judy claims they offered dinner but I was fast asleep. No breakfast. I slept for four hours, Judy maybe two.

Our taxi driver (โ€œfrom awayโ€ like most taxi drivers in the world) dropped us 100 meters from our hotelโ€™s front door since itโ€™s located on a pedestrian thoroughfare. We had to dodge a painterโ€™s lift truck to get to reception. Most everything in downtown Reykjavik is under construction, it seems.

Our room was ready, even at the early hour of 10 AM. We got settled and started out exploring on foot.

Actually, โ€œon footโ€ is an apt description of our outing. Weโ€™re about as experienced a pair of travelers you could ask for, but even old pros – emphasis on โ€œoldโ€ – can mess up once in a while. I took a shower just before leaving home and in dressing for the trip managed to put on on new shoe and one old shoe.

Now fortunately, I always buy black shoes, ones that I can wear hiking during the day and can wear to fancy restaurants that night. Solid black every time, which explains why I ended up the way I did. And my mistake gave us a reason for our outing. We stopped in a half dozen shops before finding one that sold shoes. If you want a genuine Icelandic wool sweater, theyโ€™ve got you covered. But shoes? Not so much. I guess most tourists make it to Reykjavik with matching shoes.

Lunch was at a genuine Icelandic crepe shop, just like the one we fell in love with in Amsterdam many years ago.

So far, our contact with Icelanders has been more than positive. Friendly and helpful, every one of them.

We covered a fair amount of ground on our walk. Judy retired early and I continued on to the Hallgrimskirkja Church, which weโ€™ll be visiting for an organ recital.

The pictures will hopefully give a feel for what the town is like. Itโ€™s hard to call Reykjavik picturesque or quaint like many Old Town sections of major cities. It feels, to me, like a working town, one thatโ€™s dynamic and one that doesnโ€™t let the tourist trade get in the way of people living their lives. Reykjavik sports a lot of wall art on its buildings, both commissioned and graffiti-based, which is quite attractive. It has its own charm, itโ€™s colorful, attractive, clean and neat and Iโ€™m looking forward to learning about it from our guide in the coming days.

Nap time is over, the sun is breaking through the cloud deck and Iโ€™ve found a fish joint around the corner for dinner. It must be good, judging by the cats waiting impatiently at the back door.

But wait: thereโ€™s more. Sage told us about a nearby geothermal-heated swimming pool called Sundholl. Off we went, for a pre-dinner dip. Itโ€™s a community thing โ€“ free for seniors. You shower and can enter lap pools, hot tubs and kiddie pools. Itโ€™s a big facility and seems quite popular with locals and tourists alike.

And the cats were right. The unassuming Reykjavik Fish Restaurant served up Arctic Char (a salmon relative) and a thick, spicy Icelandic fish stew called Plokkari. Really good. A geothermal soak, fish dinner and a beer and weโ€™re about as relaxed as you can get.

Weโ€™re on our own until 11:30 AM tomorrow when the formal program begins with a walking tour of downtown.

ย 

Iceland 2024

We canโ€™t seem to stay away from the cold. First Antarctica and now Iceland. ย But when youโ€™re working against a bucket list when an opportunity to check off a โ€œmustโ€ destination presents itself, you have to jump. Thatโ€™s what happened when Sage Lewis announced a June trip to Iceland. Weโ€™ve been holding out on doing Iceland until we could do it with Sage. Nowโ€™s the time.

Sage, founder of Project Por Amor https://projectporamor.com ย is first and foremost a talented musician. Check out https://sagelewismusic.com. He also runs a unique travel service specializing in both Iceland and Cuba.ย  He has extensive knowledge of the music and culture of both countries. The grub on his trips is said to be pretty good too.

Thereโ€™s an added benny in traveling with Sage. Heโ€™s the son of Barrs and Holly Lewis. Barrs and I were business partners for 10 years, first consulting as PNC Associates and then forming Harmonic Systems, a company we built and ran for five years before cashing out. Theyโ€™re going on this trip too and weโ€™ve wanted to travel with them for years. ย 

The travel stars are aligned so off we go.

This is a two-part affair. The first nine days (June 13 โ€“ 22) will be with Sage, exploring Reykjavik and southern Iceland for the most part. Hereโ€™s a link to Sageโ€™s trip: https://new.express.adobe.com/webpage/v5nDUjICTgOci?

Judy and I will then take off in a rental car to explore the north on our own (June 22 โ€“ 30). There will be more culture on the first part and more nature and scenery on the second. But our plans for the north are pretty loose so no telling what weโ€™ll run into as we go. Hereโ€™s a map of the entire trip:

Sage is taking us to the blue spots. Weโ€™re on our own for the red.

As usual, Iโ€™ll be (trying to) post every day. If youโ€™ve signed up before, youโ€™ll get a daily email when I do post. If you donโ€™t get daily emails from us on our trips, shoot me a message and Iโ€™ll add you to the list. You can access the blog at jonandjudy.com at any time, email or not. Use the Menu to jump to a particular day of this trip or one of our previous trips.

See you in Iceland!

Eclipse at Onawa 2024

Of course, I wanted to โ€œshoot the moonโ€ as it passed in front of Oleโ€™ Sol. It happens that the Lodge at Onawa Lake is smack-dab in the middle of totality as the eclipse moves northeast from Mexico and up to Maine. But would it be worth it to travel 2,000 miles for a lousy photo like everyone elseโ€™s, risking cloudy weather and the good chance of if not snow then knee-deep mud? No.

But wait, the Lodge needs new flooring in the kitchen and if we donโ€™t get it scheduled now, the vendors will get busy with summertime work and weโ€™ll be left with nothing. And while weโ€™re at it, we want to redo the downstairs bathroom so our guests can visit us without roughing it on our 50-year-old golden throne and tub. Plus, Anna Rolande Hempstead and Oliver Hempstead are getting baptized the Sunday before the eclipse so we can add that to the list. And we havenโ€™t seen the fam in three months . . .ย  You get the drift . . . Rationalization complete, tickets booked and off we go, leaving Friday AM and returning Wednesday PM. One more โ€œmeant to beโ€ factor: Rebecca, Esme and Griffin are coming Wednesday to visit us in Florida, so we booked the same flight.ย 

Getting to Onawa Monday morning, the day of the eclipse,ย  was a breeze – clear skies and dry pavement all the way. Even the Onawa Road was passable without too much difficulty. We were ahead of the crowd so the traffic wasnโ€™t bad. Half of the Northeast was in Maine, it seems. We had to walk down through some snow and mud, but nothing too serious. We opened the Lodge, turned on the heaters and the cell repeater for Internet and phone access and prepared for the big event.

The eclipse was scheduled to start at 2:19 PM, go total for 1 minute 44 seconds from 3:31 to 3:32, and complete at 4:40 PM. I had about 3 hours to get my act together. The first question: where to set up for clear viewing. Thankfully, the skies were absolutely clear with temperature in the mid 50s. Perfect weather, despite a strong breezeย  from the northwest across the still frozen lake.

It was important to me to do the shoot from our shore of Onawa Lake, not some parking lot or baseball field. But our view to the south is obscured by a hill that leads up to the railroad tracks and some pretty serious pine and deciduous trees. I did some research and learned that the sun would be at an azimuth of 238 degrees, roughly southwest, and an elevation of 37 degrees. My bet was that โ€œCannon Rockโ€ in front of Spring Side Lodge (the Hemman/Kennedy building) might work. And sure enough, it sufficed. There were a few branches at the beginning and toward the end. If anything, I rationalized, they will add a bit of character to the otherwise stark black-and-white images.

I started shooting at the appointed moment and took pictures every 5 to 10 minutes throughout the period. You can see the results in the images presented below. (300 mm lens on a Fuji XT-2 camera, 1/250th exposure at f5.6 with an 8.5 stop neutral density solar filter).

The โ€œmoney shotโ€ for an eclipse is totality, the brief moment when the moon completely blots out the sun. And I was, thank goodness, successful, as you can see in the images. The white fuzz surrounding the moon is the sunโ€™s corona. The red spikes are called solar prominences. I understand that we were lucky to have them for the eclipse; they donโ€™t happen all the time. They are loops of solar plasma that can extend out as much as 93,000 miles from the sunโ€™s surface.

Iโ€™ve included pictures of Onawa, mostly for those whoโ€™ve been there. You can see what springtime at Onawa is like. Weโ€™re told that they had three snowstorms of 27, 24 and 8 inches in the last 10 days or so. Rain and warm temps have melted most of it.ย 

Judy has put together a video that documents the Onawa Lake environment while I took the pictures and how quickly the sky became almost completely dark during the total eclipse. Here’s the link:

https://judyrick.zenfolio.com/p308488979/hf1f94285#hf1f94285

Bottom line: mission accomplished. We got our plumbing and flooring folks in motion for late May work, we had four nice meals with family and friends, enjoyed the baptisms and now weโ€™re looking forward to fun in Florida with Rebecca and the kids this week. Jeff and Carter come to us at the end of April.ย 

Life is good!

Click on the first picture for a slide show.

ย 

Homeward Bound – February 17 – 29, 2024

Our flight just departed Ushuaia, heading east down the Beagle Channel, covering in 15 minutes the distance the Octantis covered in four hours yesterday westbound, before gaining enough altitude to risk a turn to the north, avoiding the tail end of the Andes Mountains, which surround Ushuaia.

Yesterday was another sea day, the last piece being the Beagle Channel. Lots of birds enjoying the brisk winds, especially those pesky Black-browed Albatrosses that seem to follow us everywhere we go. No creature on earth enjoys flying more than those birds and no creature gets more miles per calorie burned. They are masters at working the wind currents to their advantage.

We probably could have made it from West Point Island to Ushuaia in a hard dayโ€™s sailing; we cruised at 8 knots rather than the 14 to 15 weโ€™d done earlier. But this way gave us the chance to see the Beagle Channel in daylight. It probably serves some scheduling objective known only to Viking.

Itโ€™s three-and-three-quarter hours to Buenos Aires, an eight hour layover and nine hours overnight to Miami. Rather than enduring a six hour wait in Miami, weโ€™re renting an Enterprise Rent-a-Car for a four hour drive, plus a stop to see Cousin Debbie. We can even drop the car in Sun City Center, avoiding Tampa.

So, bottom line: should you go to Antarctica? Endure the sea sickness? Have your itinerary change twice a day? Stagger down the hall to dinner and yet another lecture by some naturalist? Clamber in and out of zodiacs wearing cumbersome all weather gear and huge rubber boots? Being rescued from an island where the overnight accommodations are folding chairs in a barracks and the mail boat comes sometime around the first of the month? See the most spectacular scenery, the most amazing wildlife, experience the most unique continent on the face of the earth?

Weโ€™ve covered a lot of the world in our travels and, no matter what continent, region or country, thereโ€™s a lot of similarities. Everywhere has mountains, bodies of water, hot and cold regions. Taylor Swift fans. But Antarctica is truly unique, a world of its own.

So the answer is yes, you should endure the hardships and if at all possible, go. In fact, the hardships are essential to understanding Antarctica. Donโ€™t think of this as a cruise. Think of it as an expedition, an adventure. You can always recover on a Caribbean cruise later on. I, who spent time worshiping at the porcelain throne during our Drake Passage, am so thankful we did go. At last, we have an answer to those who always ask, โ€œWhat was your favorite trip?โ€

Thanks for coming along with us!

But wait! Thereโ€™s more! Judyโ€™s still hard at work on more videos. Iโ€™ll make a posting when theyโ€™re ready. But no more blogging for me. Iโ€™m off to forage in the American lounge here in Buenos Aires. Haste luego!