BVI Day 8 – Indian Rocks 4/28/23

We’re sitting around the table in the saloon of the Casbah III, munching on popcorn, eating ice cream and ice cream bars, trying to kill off as much food as we can before abandoning ship tomorrow. Game 4 of the Stanley Cup playoffs is on the iPad; it’s 4-3 Bruins in the third period. We’ve played Swoop and now are doing Skyjo. Earlier in the week it was bridge and four-handed cribbage. We’ve slid downhill from brain games to games emphasizing luck rather than skill and strategy. That’s what sitting out in the sun all day on island time does to you, I guess.

The day started in what has become the usual habit: up at 8, french toast and bacon, ready for mooring drop/anchor up by 9 AM. And as usual, rather than heading directly to and through the Thatcher Cut, we detoured slightly. Our planned route went from Jost Van Dyke around the west and south sides of Tortola toward Pelican Island and the famous Indian Rock snorkeling site. But the breeze, running 6 to 8 knots, as it has on several occasions sang its siren song and we spent an hour or more just sailing for the fun of it. The wind was directly on our nose when pointed up the Cut so tacking back and forth was the order of the day. We eventually bowed to the inevitable and fired up the motors to help. We arrived at the Indian Rocks about noontime.

The Thatcher Cut is an interesting passage since the U.S. – British border runs down one side. That meant that our tacks to port had to be made just before crossing over into U.S. territory. It’s as close as any of us will come to being undocumented wet backs, I’d guess.

Arriving at the Indians, did we jump in and start snorkeling? Of course not. Hot dogs, chips and fruit first and then over the side.

The snorkeling was fantastic. Hugely interesting coral growths and a plethora of colorful fish. You can see the results in the pictures. The camera system is working well and I’ve experimented with processing in Lightroom to do color correction and exposure compensation. Those with more snorkeling experience may not be impressed but for us newbies it was a really great experience.

Back at the boat the guys, as has also become tradition, jumped back in for a quick dip, this time jumping off the port pontoon forward into the 24 feet of water beneath our keel. Then off we went for the Bight, an anchorage on Norman Island, a trip of maybe 30 minutes under power. On the way, Carter and I swabbed the aft deck to get rid of sand that had accumulated during the week. We hauled up buckets of sea water to wash down the deck and swept it with the ship’s brush.

We found a close in mooring at the Bight, a pleasant anchorage with a nice restaurant, the Pirate’s Bight, where we had our farewell dinner. For indeed, tomorrow we’re going back to Nanny Cay to refuel the vessel and turn her back to Horizon.

Our adventure won’t be completely over though. Our flight – we’re all flying together to San Juan – doesn’t leave until 8 PM or so and that gives us the afternoon to explore Tortola by land. From San Juan, Carter and Jeff will catch a red eye flight to Boston, arriving home Sunday morning at 5 AM. Judy and I, being retired slackers, will stay overnight in Old Town San Juan and do some site seeing before we head back to Florida Sunday night. I’ll try to continue blogging for the next two days to record whatever turns up.

And bummer – the Bruins just lost 5 – 6 on an open net-goal with 20 seconds to play in their third period.

 

BVI Day 7 – Bubbly Pool 4/27/23

Good news: no museums, cathedrals, battlefields nor cultural landmarks to report today. Just some really nice sailing this morning, a fun lunch, a hike to the Bubbly Pool, a quick dip and then a quick motor segment to our overnight mooring (actually, anchorage) in Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke island, the easternmost island in the BVI.

Breakfast was another go on the French toast at 8 AM. Our original plan was to get to Jost Van Dyke immediately upon leaving Cane Garden Bay this morning. But the winds were favorable so we opted instead to turn to a beam reach and sail on a north-north-easterly course for half an hour. Jeff assigned Carter to tend the rigging and me to take the wheel so I got some good experience handling the boat, holding a course, tacking and jibbing. The weather, as usual, was perfect.

We finally made it to Little Jost Van Dyke island noonish and decided all hands would be well served by a bite to eat. The dinghy, piloted by the ever capable Carter, brought us to the B Line Beach Bar, a sandwich and bar shack with picnic tables. We all had cheeseburgers, one of three menu options, one of the other being hamburger.

Next a dinghy trip across the bay to Jost Van Dyke island proper for a 30-minute hike up and down the side of a hill to Bubbly Pool. For those who’ve been to Mount Desert Island, ME, think of Thunder Hole, except in this case there’s a pool where the incoming waves break with great force, but without the boom for Thunder Hole. Carter did body surfing every time a big wave made its appearance. Great fun. Back on board, the guys opted for a quick dip to wash off the trail dust we picked up. Judy showered.

It took maybe 45 minutes to get to Great Harbor, motoring all the way. Winds were light and our interest in setting sails, only having to lower them was equally light.

All mooring balls were occupied so we opted to anchor instead, which worked out fine. On the way, Judy and I squeezed limes (14 of them) and lemons (2) while the simple syrup boiled so that, upon arrival, Jeff could make up his homemade margaritas. Great tasting and powerful. I took a brief nap on the fantail while others did I know not what.

Then off to dinner ashore at Foxy’s, a fairly large establishment, all outdoors, with loud island music and pretty good food. Service was “island time” slow, so it took us over two hours without hitting the desert menu. But it was fun anyway. Jost Van Dyke is a party island – lots of 30 and 40-somethings in fairly large groups (6 to 10) having a wild time. There must be a whole lot of grandparents watching the kids most of them probably left behind.

Back home, we played a few hands of Skyjo and Swoop but it’s been a busy day in the sun and everyone is tired and ready for bed.

BVI Day 6 – Snorkeling at Monkey Point 4/26/2023

Not gonna tell you much about the history of the BVI in today’s blog posting

Not gonna tell you much about the biology of the ocean we went snorkeling in today

And the science behind sailing? You’re on your own tonight

I will tell you that you have to go a long way to find anyone with a British accent in the BVI.

But I will tell you we all love sailing under the tough but benevolent Captain Jeff on the Good Ship Casbah III. What a wonderful world it is!

Tonight’s posting, after that silliness, will be mercifully brief. It’s all Cap’n Jeff’s fault. He gave all hands double rations of rum at the Indigo Beach House. To recap the day:

  • We had a pancake breakfast on board this morning, using the flour, baking powder and syrup we purchased yesterday on Anegada
  • We sailed – ok, motor sailed – to Monkey Point, just across the water from Tortola and not far from our Windham hotel from Friday night. The winds stayed in the 5 to 10 nmph range. Our boat really needs 10 to sail with any vigorish.
  • We moored at Monkey Point and had sandwiches on board for lunch. We donned flippers and mask to snorkel in the bay for an hour or more. I got my camera act together and got a few shots of the underwater formations and plant growth but few fish – only a few shy little ones. But it was great fun nonetheless.
  • We then motored on to our overnight mooring spot in Cane Garden Bay. We’re actually on Tortola proper, on the east coast almost directly across the island from Nanny Cay where our trip began.
  • This evening we dinghy-ed in for dinner and are now playing our usual round of bedtime games – Bridge (Jeff and Carter barely escaped humiliation by eking out a 100-point victory) and now Swoop (see us at Onawa this summer for instructions)

Yesterday’s pictures are now on line. The cell network on Anegada only produced 1mbps, remenicent of the good old dial-up days. You can find them on the Day 5 blog. Here are today’s pictures:

BVI Day 5 Anegada Island 4/25/23


Whenever someone tells me, “I know how to do this. You have nothing to worry about. Trust me, I’ve got this” there remains in my mind a feeling of unease no matter how much I trust that person’s judgment, experience, qualifications and ability. The problem is, I don’t know from first-hand experience just what “this” is. What could go wrong? What are the recovery and contingency plans? 

 
In this case Jeff gave us his assurance that this nautical adventure is well within his grasp. And now that we’re halfway through our voyage, it’s all coming together.
 
Judy, Carter and I are getting our sea legs. We’ve experienced raising and lowering and trimming the sails. We’re becoming competent deck hands, handling the lines to moor and anchor our boat. We’ve learned how to enter and exit the dinghy safely, if not with the utmost of grace. We’ve experienced stormy weather. Today we made a long trip up to Anegada Island, navigating a tricky channel to the mooring field. We’ve snorkeled and proved we can do that too. 
 
In short, we now know what “this” is and have seen Jeff handle all of it with a high level of competence. And we’re having a blast!
 
The run up to Anegada today was into a wind, what little there was (6-7 knots), right on our nose. We ran the sails up and tacked but the engines did the heavy lifting. Jeff found the channel entrance and we moored with no problem. The weather was beautiful, sunny and mid 80s. It was a relaxed and enjoyable trip. Three of us lazed around playing cards and chatting with poor Jeff who was chained to the helm for the entire run. 
 
We arrived at 2 PM and had a burger lunch that I cooked up using the ship’s grill that is the same as the Margaret B’s at Onawa. Afterward was nap time. We then we made a shore run where we found a small collection of gift shops and two convenience stores. We gave a small nudge to the Anegada economy.
 
Next, the three guys set off in the dinghy up the shoreline perhaps a quarter mile to a sandy beach. We took a refreshing dip and floated in clear water. Only the sighting of some sort of ray just before we entered the water caused any concern. 
 
At 6 we went ashore and we’re met by Mr. Brad who drove us from the south shore to Anegada’s north shore and the Anegada Beach Resort. On the way, he told us that the island’s population is about 300. The road was paved at first but soon turned to sand. We saw a cow wandering along the road, a member of a wild herd native to Anegada. 
 
Anegada is the only island in the BVI that isn’t dominated by mountains. Its maximum elevation is 28 feet asl. It’s covered mostly by scrub bushes and sandy soil. 
 
Dinner featured local conch fritters and equally local Anegada lobster. The lobsters are larger than a 2 pound Maine lobster but lack claws. The meat is softer than it’s northern cousin and somewhat different in taste. Drawn butter tends to equalize the experience. 
 
We’re back on the Casbah III and the others are playing cribbage and Skyjo. I, of course, am typing on my iPhone while my iPad try’s to upload pictures. It’s slow going so pictures may have to wait until we get back to higher speed civilization tomorrow. 

BVI Day 4 – Another Change of Plans – 4/24/23

Today was another day when things didn’t go according to plan but that turned out great after all. We pulled up stakes this morning and headed for The Baths, a cave structure that can be explored on foot and snorkeling. We arrived around 9 AM only to find that all mooring balls were occupied. This is a day mooring field, meaning that all dozen or so balls had been claimed early. Anchoring is not allowed. We and another five boats circled like SUVs at the mall on Black Friday hoping someone would pull out. After a while it became clear that no had the slightest inclination to leave so we executed Plan B.

The weather forecast called for winds of 5 to 10 MPH, not ideal for sailing in the Casbah III but in fact we found winds in the 10 to 12 MPH range, adequate for some fun so up went the sails and off we went Great Dog, and island an hour or so distant. The Dog Islands were so named when someone mistook the barking of seals for the barking of dogs. Go figure.There we found mooring balls available. We donned flippers and masks and went for a swim. It was maybe 50 yards to the rock-bound shore. There we found interesting marine growth on the bottom and a fair variety of fish. I tried firing up my underwater iPhone rig which proved to be, shall we say, a learning experience. No, I didn’t get the phone wet but we’ll wait for next time for pictures.

Next, a combo sail and motor run to Saba Rock resort. Saba rock is an acre-and-a-half island in the middle of a large bay that has a few hotel rooms and a very nice restaurant that served as our lunch stop. The resort was destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017 and reopened in 2021 completely rebuilt. It’s a fun destination.

Again the winds were favorable so we headed off for our evening stopping point at Scrubb Island, a small island within sight of the Tortola airport on Beef Island. The island sports a nice harbor with $40 per night mooring balls and a Marriott restaurant. We begged the Marriott folks to rustle up our dinner which, for modest fee, they did.

I’m not sure how were going to get a good nights sleep tonight. The waters in this harbor are calm and the boat is handling rocking at all.