Jesus was received poorly in his hometown of Nazareth. After the holy spirit descended on him, he returned to Nazareth, but the people there rejected him and were ready to throw him off a cliff to his death. “Truly I tell you,” he said to them,, “no prophet is accepted in his hometown.”

So the remaining three years or so of his ministry and life were spent on the road preaching, with the center of his travels at Capernaum, a town on the northwest corner of the Sea of Galilee.

We visited three sites not far from Capernaum and then Capernaum itself this morning:

• Mount of the Beatitudes where Jesus preached his Sermon on the Mount that contains the eight Beatitudes. “Blessed are the poor in spirit for theirs is the kingdom of Heaven” and so on. Pastor Charlie recited the entire Sermon on the Mount from memory – very impressive delivery. 

Actually, the evidence is that the real site of the Sermon was further down the mountain where the remains of an early church can be seen. The Franciscan Order from Italy chose the site uphill as being more in keeping with the idea of a “mount” with picturesque views. Besides, there is no good parking spot for tour buses at the downhill church site. And believe me, there are a lot of buses to park at these sites.

• The Church of the Multiplication where tradition has it, Jesus instructed his disciples to feed the 5,000 men (and their women and children) with 5 loaves and two fishes. This church was established by the Benedictines from Germany.
• The Chapel of the Primacy, another Franciscan church, where tradition has it, Peter professed his devotion to the risen Christ three times. “Peter, do you love me?” “You know I do Lord.” “Then feed my sheep.” Peter, perhaps a bit dense, didn’t understand why the Risen Christ asked him the same question three times in a row. It was Jesus’s way of confirming that Peter had the responsibility to be the rock on which his church would be built.

These three sites were mentioned by a woman named Egaria, a traveler from Spain who wrote a 16-page letter to the girls back home detailing her travels through this region around 380 CE. She mentions three churches “built on rocks,” including the downhill church of the Sermon on the Mount.

Interestingly, the two Franciscan churches and the Benedictine church were established in 1932. Benito Mousseline donated money to the Church of the Beatitudes. Given the Holocaust that occurred ten years later, it is somehow ironic that Italians and Germans were building Christian churches in the Holy Land. Abraham, our guide, says there was no political motive behind these developments.

The final stop of the morning was at Capernaum, where yet another Franciscan church has been built over the remains of what is most probably the home of Peter. Graffiti markings in the ruins identify Peter and Jesus by name. Nearby are the remains of two temples, one dating from the fourth century AD built on top of another one dating from the first century AD and hence probably within the lifetime of Jesus. Of all the places we’ve visited, this is the one where it we can say with certainty that Jesus was actually present at THIS spot, not somewhere near this spot.

Lunch was at a restaurant that served loaves of bread with humas and a whole fish – head, tail and gills. Loaves and fishes, get it? I asked the lady what kind of fish we were being served. “Genuine Galilee Tilapia, not from Chins.” It wasn’t all that bad, but the bread was the real winner.

The restaurant offers boat rides on the Sea of Galilee so all 75 of us set off for an hour. They motored out offshore a ways and cut the motor. The boat drifted in the light breeze. Temperature, as always: 100 give or take. We sang songs and Pastor Charlie gave a message about walking on water: “keep your eyes on Jesus and you won’t sink,” as Peter learned when he tried to walk across the sea to Jesus.

Next, a short bus ride to the Yardenit Baptismal Site, a place on the Jordan River just south of its exit from the Sea of Galilee. For $15 you get a robe, see-through when wet, and a towel to dry off. We each entered the Jordan where Pastor Charlie gave almost all of us, those who chose to do so, a second baptism by total emersion. It was kind of neat for Judy and I to do it together. The water was warm but the nibbling minnows made us think we were back at Onawa.

It reminded me of the clear memory of my baptism at age 12 or so at College Baptist Church. The church had a baptismal behind the alter – probably four feet deep. Reverend Hendershot was an avid fly fisherman and wore his hip waders when he gave us our dunkings. 

This is not the place where John the Baptist baptized Jesus. That’s near Jericho but the Jordan at that point is murky and full of bullrushes and not a pleasant place to get wet. Yardenit is on the same Jordan River and is much more pleasant.

I didn’t take so many pictures today, thank goodness. The sites we visited were constrained and the tourists were thick as black flies at Onawa on Memorial Day. And you know what? One pile of 2,000-year-old ruins looks pretty much like all the others. It’s the story of what happened (or might have happened) that makes each place special.

Now we’re showered up and ready to go out on the town for dinner. We’ll see what that brings.

Dinner turned out to be good tour bus food: a fixed menu that featured pretty good salmon, rice and fries plus side dishes. OK, about what you’d expect. But then the restaurant turned up a song mix starting with Let’s Do the Twist and added in Abba, YMCA, Latin and a whole bunch more. We didn’t get back until 10 PM, which is pretty late considering we’re on the bus at 8 AM.

Today’s message was given by our tour guide, Abraham, while we visited Tel Dan in the northernmost region of Israel, the Golan Heights. (Take the history I’m about to impart with a large grain of salt. My memory of what Abraham said today differs considerably with what my quick on-line search revealed).

When King Solomon, son of King David, died the united kingdom of Israel was divided into a northern region of Israel, Samaria, and a southern region, Judah, which included Jerusalem. Jeroboam, the king of Samaria, feared that his people would want to travel to Jerusalem to worship, thereby threatening his rule. He built two golden calves and placed one at a temple in Bethel, at the southern border of Samaria and one at Dan, on the northern border as idols they could worship.  This violated the first commandment received by Moses. God retaliated and an external tribe (this is where I’m having historical problems) wiped out all the Samarians who had worshiped the golden calf at Dan. This was more severe than the punishment God handed out when the Babylonians took Israel into exile. At least then they were allowed to return. Jeroboam and his people were simply wiped out.

So much for the history lesson. Our guide Abraham’s message was: “What god do you worship? It’s easy to slip into the bad habit of worshiping someone or something other than the true God. Keep your eye on the ball.”

The same message arose at Caesarea Philippi (not to be confused with the Caesarea on the Mediterranean coast that we visited yesterday). Jesus brought his disciples to Caesarea Philippi shortly before his crucifixion. At the time, Caesarea Philippi was the Las Vegas of Israel. There were dozens of temples and Roman gods to worship. Jesus asked Peter, “Who do you say that I am.” Peter could have answered John the Baptist, Elijah or one of the profits. But he, for once, came up with the correct answer: “You are the Messiah, the Son of the living God.” So the message was the same: who do you worship?

Enough sermonizing. But you get the idea how this tour is tying in biblical references – both old and new – to the places we visit. The further back in time you go, the murkier the story becomes. Each site has layers of archeological digs that gives you a feel for how things might have been.

Next stop: Magdala, hometown of Mary Magdala, Jesus’s friend who was present at his crucifixion and resurrection. The town, about three miles north of Tiberius on the Sea of Galilee, was uncovered in 2009. Two temples, dating from between 50 BCE to 100 CE, have been uncovered. The largest is the only intact ruins of a Jewish temple from that period. The temple in Jerusalem was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE. The Magdala temple was destroyed by the Romans about the same time but the site was abandoned so the ruins are still intact, unlike the temple in Jerusalem. Magdala is said to have been a center for processing of fish from the Sea of Galilee and evidence of structures used for that purpose can be seen.

The Catholic Church’s Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center has established a large and impressive visitors’ center at Magdala with chapels and conference facilities. Construction work began in 2009 which led to the discovery of the Magdala ruins.

Final stop: the Ancient Galilee Boat. Discovered in 1989 by amateur archeologists, the wooden boat remains date from the first century CE. Some call it the “Jesus Boat” and while it dates to the time of Jesus there is no evidence that he ever sailed in it. The State of Israel has built an impressive display of the preserved boat, complete with a 7-minute video and an elaborate gift shop.

Throughout much of the day we were traveling in the Golan Heights, an area sometimes called the thumb or finger of Israel. It is an area captured by Israel from Syria in the 1967 Six-Day War. Israel considers this area to be of great strategic importance as a military buffer zone between itself and Syria and near-by Lebanon and as a point that controls water flows into the Jordan River and the Sea of Galilee. We saw evidence of Israeli and Syrian defense positions. We were about 25 miles from Damascus, Syria.

Tomorrow we visit several churches so knees and shoulders must be covered . Later we’ll sail on the Sea of Galilee, which is not, of course a sea but just a moderate-sized lake about 300 feet below sea level. At the end of  the day we’re going to be offered the chance to be baptized in the River Jordan.

Today’s devotional message at Beit Shean – this is a Christian church trip, recall – dealt with the evil the Devil can do, and in particular the feeling of inadequacy and discouragement that keeps us from doing things that would be beneficial or bring fulfillment to oneself or to others. Sometimes God gives a signal of His intent, as he did for Elijah on Mount Carmel (I Kings 18 v. 38). It’s not proper for us to ask God for a direct indication of His will but sometimes, the devotional message told us, it comes to us without asking. We drove past Mount Carmel, which prompted the pastor’s message.

I was on the horns of a dilemma. At Beit Shean we had an option for a standard guide-led exploration of the Greco/Roman/Byzantine ruins or to climb to the top of the tel to the site of a Roman temple, later a Christian temple. The problem: at 150 below sea level and a temperature of 102 the hike up the hill in blazing sun with no shade looked too dangerous to me. And I’m the guy who regularly climbs whatever cathedral tower or hill for the camera angle whenever the opportunity arises. I paid 5 Euros the other day to climb 180 stairs to the top of the cathedral in Munich.

So now my dilemma: am I saying “no” to the climb out of an abundance of caution or am I being tempted by the Devil to chicken out? But then my Fuji camera gave me the answer: “Approaching the Upper Temperature Limit of this Camera!” That’s all I needed. I’m not saying the message from Fujifilm was a message from God but if I wasn’t going to get the shot from the top of the hill, why take the chance of heat stroke?

I’ve got a ton of pictures to go through tonight, so I’ll just hit the high spots of each of the three sites we visited today.

Caesarea – a town on the Mediterranean halfway. Between Tel Aviv to the south and Haifa to the north, this was a town founded by Herod the Great. He named it Caesarea as a way of sucking up to the big guy back in Rome, Caesar Augustus, his boss. This town is important in Christian history for a number of reasons: Peter came here to perform the first baptism of a Gentile; Paul launched two of his voyages from Caesarea and later was held in prison here for two years before being sent to Rome for his trial and execution.

One of two written proofs of the existence of Pontius Pilot (of Mount Pelotus fame back in Lucerne) was found at Caesarea. He, incidentally, was a “spear man” and hence of a rank no greater than captain in the Roman army. He was a blood thirsty despot given Jerusalem to rule, which was of minor political importance.

The Muslims laid waste to the city as did the Crusaders. It’s a major archeological site and is now a Israeli national park.

Tel Megiddo – the site of 20 or more cities and civilizations built one on top of another over a period of from perhaps 5000 BCE to 350 BCE. Archeologists have dug down through the layers to identify the various civilizations. When one city failed another was eventually constructed on top of the ruins, creating a pile, or tel, that is about 21 meters (69 feet) above the surrounding land.

A particularly interesting feature is the well and access tunnel constructed to protect the city from enemy siege. We descended 187 steps down a pit in the ground with circular stairs that led to a tunnel some 100 meters in length, which in turn led to an underground spring. The town could access the water without going outside its protective walls, making it impossible for the enemy to cut off its water supply.

We could see the hilltop town of Nazareth in the distance.

Beit Shean – another tel structure, this one featuring a well preserved city constructed first by the Greeks, then the Romans and then the Byzantine Empire. It has the best Roman theater preserved in Israel (although the ones Judy and I saw across the river in Jordan a few years ago at Jerash equaled what we saw today). Beit Shean is also the spot mentioned in Revelations as Armageddon, the place where the battle between good and evil will occur at the end of time.

After all that, we drove north up the Jordan River to Tiberias where we checked in and had dinner. Today was a long day in the heat. Tomorrow we’re off to the north to the Golan Heights with the same early morning routine: breakfast at 7 and on the bus by 8 and more interesting biblical sites to explore.

The good news: both of our pre-planned activities fell through. We didn’t accomplish either. The result: much better outcomes in both cases.

We left our sumptuous accommodations at the Sheraton around 9:30 AM and, rather than going for the $35 breakfast the hotel offered, we went down on the beach and bought pastries and juice for less than half that price.

I’d googled something to do in Tel Aviv reasonably close to the hotel. Up popped the Holocaust Memorial Museum on Rabin Square, maybe a 20-minute walk from the hotel. “What?” said the bellman. “Never heard of it.” “What?” said the taxi driver. “You mean the one in Jerusalem, right?”  The taxi took us to Rabin Square where we found the spot designated by google for the museum was a construction site for a new high-speed rail terminal. 

We hatched plan B while sitting in the shade on park chairs – it’s really hot here – the Tel Aviv Art Museum, a 20-minute walk. We hoofed it there and eventually found the entrance. The art museum is part of a large arts complex with theaters and concert halls in addition to the art museum.  

Inside we found a documentary on the photojournalist of Micha Bar-Am, said to be the father of photojournalism in Israel. His work was organized into nine videos, each lasting 8 minutes and including interviews with the artist and his wife/collaborator. We entered a large room with nine screens with benches in front of each. We watched four videos before moving on but later on came back and saw four more before being kicked out at 2 PM – today is Friday and sabbat starts at sundown, hence the early closing. 

The work was fascinating on several levels. The photography, mostly black and white, was exceptional. Bar-Am was present to photograph many historical events and people in Israel’s history, such as the Yom Koper war and many prime ministers. And the photos gave a glimpse of what life in Israel was and is like, including scenes from kubutzes. 

We also visited a collection of mostly contemporary Israeli art. The theme centered on earth, water, air and fire. As with most modern art it is difficult to connect all the dots, but the work was interesting, nonetheless. One interesting tidbit: Israeli artists seldom focus on the ocean, even though Israel is a coastal country with the Mediterranean at its front door. The reason suggested is that Israelis have always been focused on land and territory. Reclaiming the promised land as a Jewish state has been more important than naval matters.

We hailed a cab to take us to Yaska, a restaurant near the hotel that had been recommended by our bellman. I gave the cabbie the name of the restaurant and he said, in broken English, “No, you don’t want to go there. You must go to HaKosem. They have the best shawarma and falafel in the world. Google it if you don’t believe me.” After a falafel each and a lemonade-like drink it’s the best in the world. Google it if you don’t believe us.

From then on things were back on track. Jeanne and Chip arrived by 3 PM. We moved the van departure up to 3:30 instead of 4:30, and we were at the hotel here in Hadera before 5 PM. We procured a bottle of wine from the hotel kiosk and by 7 PM we were dipping our toes in the bathwater-like Mediterranean. Dinner by 7:30 with our fellow travelers John and Marilyn who are housed next door. The full group arrived about 9:30, tired and hungry but at least here.

Bags in the lobby tomorrow morning by 7 AM and on the bus by 8. We’re headed out to see Beit Shean, Caesarea, Mount Carmel and Tel Megiddo before reaching our next hotel in Tiberius. No time for lollygagging around in five-star hotels from here on out. We’re going to have to act like tourists, not like vacationers.

The sweetest words I’ve heard in the last 17 days were, “Looks OK to me,” which the Europcar check-in guy said to me after doing his walkaround. A total of 650 miles of dent-free driving through big cities and one-lane country roads. I was not at all sorry to turn in the car and fall back on others to crank the wheel and figure out which exit on the roundabout is number three.

The car, a Toyota C-HR SUV hybrid proved to be a comfortable ride and really good on the gas. I figure we spent less than $100 at 2 euros/liter and averaged 47 mpg. Not bad at all. Parking came in a bit north of $150 in three cities.

So, we made it to the airport this morning but it proved to be something of a challenge. Once again, I bet on the wrong horse, gps-wise. I set the Toyota nav for the Swiss side of the airport and Google Maps for the Europcar location. They didn’t agree. I followed the Toyota, thinking that the Europcar location might be an office rather than the return spot. Wrong choice. Google was correct and the Toyota seemed to take us to the French side of the airport. That meant we scored yet another country on our trip, France, if only long enough to make a U-turn.

The flight from Geneva to Munich (Munich? That’s where we dumped Carter and picked up the rental car) was a bit late and we had a long walk/run through the airport, Passport Control, a second passport check and an x-ray scan of luggage and bodies. We made it with three minutes to spare but so did a bunch of other people. The plane didn’t back off the gate for a good 30 minutes after the published departure. They’re used to this routine, I’d guess.

The 3.5-hour flight was fine and it took about 30 minutes to get to the curb, including Passport Control and Customs. I’d been trying all day to find out about a shuttle from the airport to the hotel but couldn’t get anyone at the hotel to respond. We finally went to the taxi stand and asked for a ride to the Sheraton. A guy talking to the cab dispatcher said, “I’ll take them” and away we went.

Bottom line: we got to the hotel through horrendous traffic but, it seems, we got taken for the other kind of ride. We paid 350 shekels, about $100. The bellhop said it should have been 200 shekels.  The guy drove and honked in a way that would make a Boston driver blush. At least he didn’t take us to the Gaza Strip and hold us hostage or something.

Our room is gorgeous. The lady at the concierge desk asked our room number. “1614? Oh, that’s a great room with a beautiful view.” She’s right. Thanks, Jeff, for booking it for us.

Tomorrow our friends Jeanne and Chip from Melrose are flying in around 2 PM. They’ll take a cab (we’ve warned them) to our hotel. We’ve arranged for a van to take the four of us about an hour or so up the coast to Hadera Beach, where we’ll join the tour group from Sun City Center.

We went downstairs for dinner at Manara, a restaurant within the hotel that, according to the maître d has been fully booked since last July. He was able to squeeze us in at the bar but admonished us that our barstools were reserved at 9:30 so we must be finished before then. Judy had grouper, I had a whole sea bass and we were out of there by 9:16. The grub was good and so was the vibe.